Spring into Summer
We Began in Italy, Slid into France, then Stayed in Spain
From the Venice Biennale in mid-April to the museums of Paris in mid-May, we traveled with a group of pals, our “travel family”. We explored obscure sites and enjoyed extravagant meals full of unusual flavors. From cheese making in Paris, to visiting odd little museums in cities and countryside, we spent our first month traveling with the group before moving onto our one-time home in Girona, Catalonia for the next month.
Part 2 and 3: These upcoming posts (in progress) will be about the first portion of our trip and feature the Biennale. In Part 1 I’m writing and showing a sampling of photos from our most recent experiences in and around Girona.
Here’s a photo of me in front of a beautiful mosaic during one of the last days of our travels with friends through Italy and France. Shot in Paris by our talented friend, Flora, this was on the Rue Jacob, in the neighborhood of Saint Germain de Pres. Scarf by Julie Paschkis.
FROM LAST TO FIRST: DAY TRIPS
Daily side trips helped us deal with the extreme heat wave in our HQ, Girona, where the temperature reached 106F plus humidity. Living in SF for decades means we are no longer used to extreme weather. Most of the time, SF’s temperature range is small, between 60-75F. I welcome the chilly summer fog today!
DAY TRIPPING
L’ESTARTIT
We took a jaunt to L’Estartit, to meet up with a friend in a chiringuito (a rough cafe with drinks and snacks right on the sand) to enjoy the end of day temperature drop and slight breeze. It’s too hot and sunny from midday into late afternoon to spend time under the sun. It’s imperative to get on the local schedule: up fairly early to do chores and shop; meals at regular times with a big lunch from 1:30-3:30 followed by an indoor siesta, then back outdoors again to the beach or in town for a pleasant evening with drinks, tapas or a light meal, and often a delicious ice cream.
In L’Estartit, a long cove beach on the Costa Brava, we met a friend at 4pm; swam at 7:30; and left at around 8:30, swinging by the grocery for supplies to have a snack at home. I bought a little kit for 5 euros consisting of cans of muscles, clams, and olives stuffed with anchovies plus a tiny bottle of Espina hot sauce. I debated about buying a bottle of cava (champagne made in Catalonia) for under 3 euros but selected a brut reserve for 6 euros.
At the beach and on the ride home, There was still plenty of light until quite late, with bold, dramatic skies and ominous rain clouds that burst every once in awhile.
Ominous cloudy sunset at L’Estartit.
The beach at L’Estartit as seen from the chiringuito.
MORE DAY TRIPS
HOSTALRIC, SANT MARTI DE LA ROCA, PALAFRUGELL, TORRELLA DE MONTGRI / PALS, LA FOSCA, SA TUNA, AND TOSSA DE MAR
It’s fun to lie on the sand and look over at the castle remains on the hillside in TOSSA DE MAR.
Walking the path along the coast at La Fosca.
A view from the window of favorite restaurant in a favorite seaside village, San Marti d’Emporda.
The beginning of the season is provides especially clear, clean water.
Yes the water really is turquoise.
Eating right next to the water in Tamariu.
First time seeing the village of Hostalric with its castle and wall plus this outdoor hand painted mural.
A BENEDICTINE MONASTERY COMPLEX
For a cooler inland trip, overlooking the sea, and from far above it, Sant Pere de Rodes is a favorite site. Built as an abbey in the 10th C., this monument complex has an unusual monastery built in the 11th C, which was abandoned and fell into decline in 1798. Fortunately it has been extensively restored since our last visit a number of years ago. Then it was a walk-in and explore kind of place. Now there’s an entry fee and gift shop…but it’s worth the trade off. It looked like so much had been excavated and made safe for exploring. The site is celebrating its anniversary, from 1022-2022. Afterward we drove down the mountain to the seaside village of El Port de la Selva for beers, mussels, and seafood fideua (noodle paella).
Stairs to one of two bell towers and a restaurant.
Fideua with alioli sauce
The Catalan Romanesque style church nave with barrel vaulting is 16 meters high.
Mussels marinera
ROMAN TARRAGONA
I’ve always wanted to see this Roman port city of Tarragona, with its intact ancient walls, Amphitheatre, Roman circus, medieval churches, and more. It’s only two hours south of Girona. Afterward we watched the Russell Crowe film “Gladiator” again, which felt just right.
There’s a lively art scene in and around Tarragona. The one indication that we saw were portside galleries and art installations.
Like many Roman sites, the Amphitheatre is overlooking the coast.
Old terminal turned into an an art gallery. The local artist showing here was American.
And arty city, this is a building-height mural in Tarragona close to the port.
Looking up the stairs to the Tarragona cathedral.
At the city’s port there’s contemporary public art and art exhibits inside of old terminals.
I love travel in the springtime! In addition to the fabulous flowers in bloom, asparagus and artichokes are in season throughout the Med.
Roasted artichokes (and fresh fish) for lunch. I ate fresh artichokes as often as possible since they were in season and so well prepared.
GIRONA’S OLD QUARTER
I’m always charmed by the Onyar River that divides the City’s Old Quarter from the less ancient part of town. The rich warm tones of the buildings are reflected in the shallow water along with the big sky, multiple foot bridges, and landmark churches. Sunsets are divine.
The Roman Wall, Passeig de la Muralla, was expanded in the 14th century and renovated to be walkable in the 21st century. Now you can walk along it and see impressive views of the city and surrounding countryside.
CONNECTING OLD & NEW
Girona is an ancient city founded by the Romans. With four rivers it is a city of bridges, eleven total. The most famous is the Pont de les Peixateries Velles, constructed by Gustave Eiffel just before the Eiffel Tower in Paris. You can walk cross the Onyar River from many parts of The Old Quarter (Roman and Medieval) into the “new” Girona. Like so many ancient cities of the world, it is surrounded by a Roman Wall with a potent history. Experts believe that some sections of the wall date as far back as the first century AD.
The River Onyar’s shallow water is filled with fish, ducks, and reflections.
The city glows at night.
Passageways abound in The Old Quarter.
The river reflects the colorful buildings lining it on both sides.
The picturesque Eiffel Bridge is a pleasant way to walk across the river.
Tiny children on bikes – the youngest cycling group I’ve ever seen. Girona is a major cycling center.
A contemporary mural adorns a a very old building.
Buckwheat crepes are Brittany style and a favorite treat in Girona at La Vedette.
L’Escabech is a tiny new restaurant with super fresh seafood made in unusual ways, and run by a very young chef.
BESALU, BISBAL, BEGUR
We visited a fascinating Ceramic Museum in La Bisbal d’Emporda, at the center of the ceramics industry in the region. The museum is located in a picturesque old ceramic factory. The history of ceramic manufacturing is well demonstrated.
Besalu is known for is magical entrance over the bridge and through the city gate. You might also see the historical mikvah by the river. Catalonia had a significant Jewish population up to around 1492.
The Ceramic Museum in Bisbal is a great way to learn about the history and production of ceramics in art and building.
In Begur we happened upon the annual flower festival with streets full of people and a festive atmosphere.
Begur is dreamy at night with views for miles.
ESPOLLA & CADAQUES WITH FRIENDS
Outdoor lunch with beautiful sunlight streaming in and fabulous food made by an artist/writer pair of French friends who live in a tiny olive oil village.
In our artist friend’s apartment building in Cadaques, there’s a beautiful stairway that leads to a spectacular rooftop view.
BABS’ TRAVELS
She’s always with me, but she takes different forms. My Barbie for Europe 2022 is a new model who is more petite in build and she has a different face and figure from the conventional Barbies. So I call her Babs…she’s so European looking, no? Her Mattel model name is “Barbie Signature Looks Doll”.
Hanging out on the steps in our Girona apartment.
Lounging on the beach in Costa Brava.
IN AND OUT OF BARCELONA
We fly or take the train in and out out of Barcelona, so we savor time with our old friends and feast our eyes on the city’s architectural details.
Such a pretty city. Nice to catch an uncrowded night there before summer tourist season returns in full force.
AROUND CADIZ
We met our good friend and fellow artist Diana Howard in Cadiz for a week long holiday. Diana lives in France and studies with the same zoom tutor that my husband studies with, who is based near Cadiz. They’ve been practicing their Spanish language skills all through the pandemic, which has paid off. Diana made a beautiful, informative blog post about our trip which you may enjoy reading here.
This excursion into the Deep South of Spain, was our second visit to this friendly, pleasant seaside city with a long history. Established by the Phoenicians for its port on the Atlantic it’s been a key trading post for centuries. On one of our last days there we toured a very old sherry bodega known as Osborne, to taste and learn the process. They’re best known for introducing the giant metal bulls throughout Spain, which became the symbol for much of Spain. The burro is the Catalan mascot. Advocates of Catalan nationalism have adopted the Catalan donkey as a response to the Toro de Osborne image widespread in other parts of Spain.
CATALONIA
The burro is the symbol of Catalonia and here’s one by the side of the road in this quaint village.
FLEA MARKETS
I adore a good market, small or large, flea or food, air conditioned, or sweltering in the sun. When the market is in a country other than my own, it’s almost always a thrill.
HEAD FOR THE HILLS
Camprodon is a picturesque inland village we’d enjoyed a few years ago. The pandemic hasn’t been kind to it. There are so many shop closures and the streets are torn up. These small places that survive on tourism have taken a big hit the last few years. The temperature is about 10 degrees cooler than the flats and that’s a good reason to explore these off the beaten path villages.
What’s Next?
MORE BLOG POSTS
Summer 2022 Blog Part 2 & 3 will feature “Italy: The Biennale" & "Travel in France", both due out soon. Read about my first experience at a Venice Biennale and my travels in N. Italy.
SUMMER ART SHOWS
I’m participating in a few shows right now, at SFWA, Being Human: The Figurative Show, juried by Diane Olivier; the August Group Show at City Art Coop Gallery (SF); and at O’Hanlon Art Center’s “Red”, online, juried by Jen Tough, (hear the recorded artists’ roundtable).
Join me for in-person receptions on Aug 5 at City Art Gallery, from 7-10pm and Aug 6 at SFWA, from 2-4pm. Visit my website home page for frequent updates.
ARTSPAN FALL OPEN STUDIOS
Artspan Open Studios takes place in late October - November this year. I am participating with a group at SFWA. Our Open Weekend is Oct 29-30, 11am-6pm.
My art studio will also be open - by appointment as usual - and on SOMA Open Studios weekend, Nov 5-6, from 11-6pm.
Don’t miss all of the Artspan events at SOMARTS.
On-Going!
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